Ask any garment manufacturer working on winter or loungewear collections, and they'll tell you the fleece-vs-terry question comes up constantly. Both fabrics look similar from the outside — soft, cozy, ideal for hoodies and sweatshirts — but the way they're built underneath is genuinely different, and that difference affects everything from warmth to weight to how the finished garment behaves.

We manufacture both at Om Textiles, so this is one of those "which one do I actually need" conversations we have with customers on a regular basis. Here's the breakdown.

What Makes Fleece and French Terry Different?

The core difference comes down to construction — specifically, what happens on the inside face of the fabric.

French Terry has a looped interior. Picture small, uncut loops of yarn on the inside of the fabric, similar in concept to a towel, though much finer. This looped structure is what gives French terry its breathability and slightly textured feel on the inside, while the outer face stays smooth.

Fleece takes that same looped construction and adds an extra step — brushing. The loops are mechanically brushed to raise and open up the fibers, creating that soft, fuzzy inner surface fleece is known for. This brushing process is also what makes fleece noticeably warmer than terry, since the raised fibers trap more air.

In short: French terry is terry left as-is. Fleece is terry that's been brushed for extra softness and warmth.

Weight and GSM Comparison

Because of the brushing process, fleece tends to run heavier than French terry at a comparable base construction.

Cotton French Terry: Typically falls in the 240 GSM range — enough weight for structure and warmth without feeling bulky. Good middle ground between a lightweight tee fabric and a heavy winter fabric.

Cotton Fleece: Available at 280, 350, and even 410 GSM depending on how heavy or warm the garment needs to be. The higher GSM options are specifically built for serious winter wear, where warmth is the priority.

If you're comparing on paper, a general rule holds: fleece skews heavier and warmer, terry skews lighter and more breathable — though there's overlap depending on the exact GSM chosen.

How They Feel Different

This is where the difference is most obvious to anyone actually touching the fabric.

French terry has a flatter, slightly looped inner texture — soft, but with some texture you can feel if you run a hand across it. It breathes well, which makes it a comfortable choice for layering or year-round wear, not just cold weather.

Fleece feels noticeably plusher. The brushed inner surface is smooth and fluffy against the skin, closer to what people associate with "cozy" winter fabric. It's warmer to the touch and traps heat more effectively, but it's also less breathable than terry — something worth considering for garments that'll see heavy indoor wear.

Suitable Applications for Each

Cotton French Terry works well for:

• Sweatshirts and joggers meant for year-round or transitional-season wear
• Loungewear where breathability matters as much as comfort
• Layering pieces, since it's not overly bulky

Cotton Fleece works well for:

• Hoodies and heavier sweatshirts built specifically for cold weather
• Winter loungewear and blankets, where warmth is the main goal
• Kids' winter wear, where the softer brushed feel adds comfort

Some manufacturers use both fabrics within the same collection — terry for lighter pieces, fleece for the heavier ones — to cover a full range of seasonal needs without switching suppliers.

Choosing Between the Two

A quick way to decide:

1. If Warmth Is the Priority

   Go with fleece, especially in the 350–410 GSM range for serious winter wear where extra insulation and warmth are important.

2. If Breathability and Versatility Matter More

   French terry is the better fit. Its looped construction provides comfortable warmth while remaining more breathable for transitional and year-round apparel.

3. If You're Unsure, Compare Samples

   Request swatches of both fabrics at your target GSM. The difference in handfeel, inner construction, warmth, and weight becomes much easier to understand when compared side by side.

4. Factor in Your Price Point

   Consider your product budget and positioning, since fleece's additional brushing process can affect the overall cost compared with French terry at a similar GSM.

Sourcing Fleece and French Terry from Om Textiles

We manufacture both cotton fleece (280/350/410 GSM) and cotton French terry (240 GSM) at our Tughlakabad facility, along with poly-cotton and airjet variants of each for different budget and performance needs. Every batch is checked for consistent GSM, finish, and handfeel before dispatch.

Not sure which one fits your collection? Get in touch with our team and share your requirement — we'll help you choose the right fabric for the season and garment you're producing.